Wall outlet height advice

[Truthz]

What's the typical height for outlets in a bedroom or living room? My elderly sister-in-law is building a house, so I suggested raising them slightly for easier access.

 

[VoltagexV]

Raising the outlets for easier access is a great idea, especially for an elderly person!! The standard height is 12" to the bottom of the box, but that's just a guideline. I've also installed them at 18" or even 24" for ADA compliance and in assisted living situations. As long as it's consistent throughout the room and not a tripping hazard for cords, a few inches higher is perfectly fine and often preferred. It's best to communicate with both the inspector and contractor your specific needs!!

 

[CircuitRick]

What's the typical height for outlets in a bedroom or living room? My elderly sister-in-law is building a house, so I suggested raising them slightly for easier access.

I've been on a few jobs where the homeowner was thinking along similar lines. We usually stick to the standard 12-18 inches off the finished floor for general outlets, but I recently did a new build for a couple who were planning their retirement home. They wanted us to raise all the general outlets to 24 inches. We worked with the builder and the plans were adjusted, and it worked out great. It's not a big deal to make a change like that, especially if you catch it before the drywall goes up. Just make sure to communicate it clearly to the electrician and the builder. It makes a lot of sense for accessibility!

 

[p3meal bac0n]

What's the typical height for outlets in a bedroom or living room? My elderly sister-in-law is building a house, so I suggested raising them slightly for easier access.

you should go for a comfortable height. A standard of 12" is common, but 18" or even 24" off the floor is much easier to reach.
Also, consistency is key. Pick a height and stick to it for all the outlets in the room. This makes it look neat and planned, not like a mistake

 

[PGB1]

One thing to consider is the future possibility of a resident being restricted to a wheelchair or other seated mobile device. Additionally, loss of dexterity or hand/arm use are important considerations. Lots of studies have been done on the subject of receptacle outlet heights and switch heights (as well as plumbing device heights) for people with physical restrictions.

For receptacle outlet heights and switch heights, the consensus is for the operable part of devices to be above 15" and below 48" from the finished floor. This means the center of the handle on the switch or the openings in the receptacle outlet. REF: 28 CFR Part 36.

I realize that these study results are included in the U.S. ADA and that ADA does not typically apply to general purpose single family residential, but the goal is to make the home inclusive, comfortable and usable for the occupants- now and in the future.

Perhaps the research will help the electrician guide the homeowner in making decisions of device placement.

Paul

 

[Truthz]

Raising the outlets for easier access is a great idea, especially for an elderly person!! The standard height is 12" to the bottom of the box, but that's just a guideline. I've also installed them at 18" or even 24" for ADA compliance and in assisted living situations. As long as it's consistent throughout the room and not a tripping hazard for cords, a few inches higher is perfectly fine and often preferred. It's best to communicate with both the inspector and contractor your specific needs!!

That's super helpful, I'll suggest 18–24" for her place so it's easier on her back and knees. I'll also double-check with the contractor to keep everything consistent and code-friendly

 

[Truthz]

I've been on a few jobs where the homeowner was thinking along similar lines. We usually stick to the standard 12-18 inches off the finished floor for general outlets, but I recently did a new build for a couple who were planning their retirement home. They wanted us to raise all the general outlets to 24 inches. We worked with the builder and the plans were adjusted, and it worked out great. It's not a big deal to make a change like that, especially if you catch it before the drywall goes up. Just make sure to communicate it clearly to the electrician and the builder. It makes a lot of sense for accessibility!

It sounds like raising them a bit early in the build is simple if it's planned

 

[Truthz]

One thing to consider is the future possibility of a resident being restricted to a wheelchair or other seated mobile device. Additionally, loss of dexterity or hand/arm use are important considerations. Lots of studies have been done on the subject of receptacle outlet heights and switch heights (as well as plumbing device heights) for people with physical restrictions.

For receptacle outlet heights and switch heights, the consensus is for the operable part of devices to be above 15" and below 48" from the finished floor. This means the center of the handle on the switch or the openings in the receptacle outlet. REF: 28 CFR Part 36.

I realize that these study results are included in the U.S. ADA and that ADA does not typically apply to general purpose single family residential, but the goal is to make the home inclusive, comfortable and usable for the occupants- now and in the future.

Perhaps the research will help the electrician guide the homeowner in making decisions of device placement.

Paul

That's a great perspective, I hadn't thought about long-term accessibility in terms of wheelchairs or dexterity loss. I'll bring up the 15–48" guideline with her electrician so the placement works both now and later

 

[PGB1]

That's a great perspective, I hadn't thought about long-term accessibility in terms of wheelchairs or dexterity loss. I'll bring up the 15–48" guideline with her electrician so the placement works both now and later

Another item to discuss, Truthz, is leaving a loop of NM cable in the wall so that the device box can be moved up, down or sideways later with minimal problems. Some wall board at the box will have to be damaged, but new wire won't have to be fished.

If you are covered by NFPPA 70, the loop shouldn't be on the box side of the staple or strap required by NFPA 70 330.30 unless the inspecting authority gives prior approval (a grey area).

Paul