Is this code compliant?

[install4you]

Hi all.
I'm changing some outdoor lights. I had never seen fixtures with a built in GFCI outlet. That sounded great so I ordered a couple. I was discussing a wiring problem on the DIY forum before I found this electrical forum & someone told me the lights don't meet code. I used the mfg. contact-us & asked them. They asked for what specific part of the code it violated. I found this forum & thought I might get a precise answer. I'll describe the issue & post a couple pics.
You can see in the pics that the outlet & its wiring are in a box that sits between the wall and the light. The outlets face down & have a hinged cover that folds down. The code issue is that there is no in-use cover. As I understand, that's a clear plastic "bubble" that lifts up for access & comes down to cover cord ends that plug into the outlets, protecting them from rain.

Does the cover rule apply to devices with auxiliary outlets like these lights? Does facing down make any difference?
I respect the code because it's all about safety. I just need to understand if & how it applies.

I'm posting some views that should clarify my descriptions.

One more thing...the mfg said the light is not designed to separate the outlets from the light so the switch won't control the outlets. It looks like a simple thing. I have 2 wires to the octagonal box. One is switched for the light & 1 is hot for the outlets. It looks like I take the pigtails joining the light & sensor wires off the outlet & connect to the switched line. Then I connect the hot line to the outlet. (BTW, it's 2 different circuits.)

I really appreciate any advice you can give.
Eddie

 

[Ironbloods]

I’m not an inspector, but your instinct about the in-use cover is usually the big sticking point. A “downward facing” receptacle with a flip lid is often only weatherproof when closed, not while a cord is plugged in. Most places want an in-use cover any time a cord can be left plugged in outdoors, even if it points down. I’d ask your AHJ or inspector because they’ll decide, and it’s cheaper than redoing it later.

 

[install4you]

Thanks. I've been emailing the manufacturer. When they mentioned the fixture had passed tests I checked the stickers inside and it's ETL certified for wet locations. They say they're seriously considering everything I said so they can improve their products. I'll let that one ride.
I'm gonna use the fixture and if I need cords plugged in when it's raining I'll just open the garage door & use the inside outlets. I'm swapping the GFCI outlet for a standard outlet to avoid having 2 GFCI's in line on the same circuit. BTW- do you know how hard it is to find a 20 amp, WR, decor style outlet in any color?

If I need to sell my house before I leave the planet and if an inspector doesn't like it, I'll just replace it.
Thanks

 

[PGB1]

BTW- do you know how hard it is to find a 20 amp, WR, decor style outlet in any color?

A local electrical supply house will have them in stock in colors.

If you want to search on line instead:
Hubbell makes DR20BLKWRTR if you want black. Brown is DR20WRTR It comes in white & ivory also.
These are also tamper resistant. Hubbell devices are very good.

WDR20-W is LeGrand's part number for a white one in Specification Grade. Supplyhouse com usually has them at about 16.00 USD. Grainger & it's child company Zoro also have 20a WR Decora style, spec and hospital grades. LeGrand Pass & Seymour devices are very good.

Showmensupllies com probably has a good choice of 20a WR Decora style. They will order white, black, blue, red or orange (IG) at no extra charge. Showmensupplies is pretty good on price.

PS: Skip eBay. Lots of electrical on eBay are fake with fake ETL or UL stickers. (Some are legitimate. Who can tell which is which?)

Paul

 

[electr0roy]

hi OP, just a heads up. be careful about swapping that GFCI for a standard outlet!
if the first GFCI in the line trips, the light's outlet will go dead, which is fine. but you must make sure that standard outlet is actually a WR rated one.
standard indoor outlets will corrode and fail fast outside

 

[Alan]

Even if you find a technical argument that it squeaks by, an outlet with no true in use protection is going to be the first thing an inspector or a cautious electrician will flag. Water plus a cord cap is a real failure mode. The easiest clean fix is usually to use a fixture assembly that is listed for the configuration you want, or add a listed weatherproof solution that meets the “plug inserted” requirement.