Meter shows normal voltage but the circuit cannot power a simple lamp, is this a loose neutral or a bad backstab connection?

[BergardZeman]

Has anyone seen that weird situation where you read normal voltage, but the circuit acts dead as soon as you try to use it? I’m new enough that it’s making me second guess my testing, and I don’t want to do anything unsafe.

A specific moment was this morning when I checked the same outlet twice and it read fine both times, then my phone charger wouldn’t even start. What’s the usual culprit, like a loose neutral somewhere, a bad backstab in a receptacle, a failing splice, or an upstream GFCI or device that is causing a high resistance connection?

 

[Alan]

Good instincts asking before poking around. Since you’re already seeing “voltage present, no load works,” we don’t want you chasing it with the panel open. If your safe external checks don’t find an upstream GFCI or a simple reset issue, the correct move is a service call and tell them exactly what you observed: “reads normal on a meter but drops under load.” That description helps them go straight to neutrals/splices and the first device in the run.

 

[PGB1]

You mentioned Backstabs, BergardZeman. If you have that type of receptacle, it could very likely be the culprit.

Over time, the spring (which is nothing more than a flat piece of spring steel) gets weak. The conductor gets a bit corroded & a tiny gap forms when the device is used. This heats & oxidizes the conductor. Even a small load can cause the connection to open enough to stop electron flow or arc or burn.

If you don't mind a respectfully submitted suggestion, it would be wise to get rid of any backstab devices- receptacle outlets & switches. Be absolutely, positively, 100% certain power is off to any device you open.

Should backstab not be the case, I very much agree with Alan's comment about a neutral splice being the problem. They fail first.
I also strongly agree to stay out of the load center.

Paul

 

[Gralsritter]

Normal voltage but no power under load usually means bad connection, not a bad lamp. I would look for an upstream GFCI that is tripped, a loose device screw, a backstab that is barely hanging on, or a loose neutral in a box. If the outlet feels warm or you hear buzzing, stop and do not keep testing with loads.