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Issues in installing hive thermostat

FlipFlopDude

Active member
Joined
Mar 26, 2025
Messages
27
City & State/Province
Texas
I want to install a hive to a combi boiler but I've hit a snag. We got heating zones upstairs and downstairs, there are five core cables in the boiler (L,N,E, and the other two cores go to the terminalblock labeled room sat/ timer)
I took out those two wires and connected the new hive receiver to those spots along with the L, N, and E
It worked fine at first, but then the boiler started to fire up when I switched the thermostat on. I switched it off, and the boiler stopped firing. The funny thing is tht the radiators weren't even getting hot. Does this have something to do with removing the two wires, or is there something else? What do you think people?
 
The valve opens, then acts like a relay connecting both grey and orange together, which completes the circuit A and B. Sounds like we're by-passing the valve?
 
I want to install a hive to a combi boiler but I've hit a snag. We got heating zones upstairs and downstairs, there are five core cables in the boiler (L,N,E, and the other two cores go to the terminalblock labeled room sat/ timer)
I took out those two wires and connected the new hive receiver to those spots along with the L, N, and E
It worked fine at first, but then the boiler started to fire up when I switched the thermostat on. I switched it off, and the boiler stopped firing. The funny thing is tht the radiators weren't even getting hot. Does this have something to do with removing the two wires, or is there something else? What do you think people?
It looks like disconnecting those two wires messed up the circuit. Go ahead and reconnect them, wiring the Hive as follows: Live (L) to L, Neutral (N) to N, Common (C) to 1, Heating On (NO) to 3, and Earth (E) to Earth. After you've done that, give it a test. If it's still not working, you might want to reach out to a professional for help.
 
I guess the Hive is triggering the boiler but not opening the zone valves, which is why it fires up but the radiators stay cold. The 2 wires you removed likely controlled the zone valves, so pulling them out may have broken that link. You'll need to wire the Hive to control both the boiler and the zone valves correctly. It might be time to trace the wiring or check the setup with a multizone compatible Hive or a dual channel receiver. Hope this helps.
 
I want to install a hive to a combi boiler but I've hit a snag. We got heating zones upstairs and downstairs, there are five core cables in the boiler (L,N,E, and the other two cores go to the terminalblock labeled room sat/ timer)
I took out those two wires and connected the new hive receiver to those spots along with the L, N, and E
It worked fine at first, but then the boiler started to fire up when I switched the thermostat on. I switched it off, and the boiler stopped firing. The funny thing is tht the radiators weren't even getting hot. Does this have something to do with removing the two wires, or is there something else? What do you think people?
It might be that you pulled wires that also triggered the valve actuators. Double-check how the zones are wired in.
 
I want to install a hive to a combi boiler but I've hit a snag. We got heating zones upstairs and downstairs, there are five core cables in the boiler (L,N,E, and the other two cores go to the terminalblock labeled room sat/ timer)
I took out those two wires and connected the new hive receiver to those spots along with the L, N, and E
It worked fine at first, but then the boiler started to fire up when I switched the thermostat on. I switched it off, and the boiler stopped firing. The funny thing is tht the radiators weren't even getting hot. Does this have something to do with removing the two wires, or is there something else? What do you think people?
Well, it sounds like you accidentally cut out the link to the zone valves. Trace those two wires and see if they were feeding the actuators. Anyway, I just read your other post. You seem to be having lots of problem, eh?
 
Okay, so it actually sounds like maybe the Hive receiver isn't even wired into the main boiler control loop... those two wires you pulled might've been part of a zone switch or old timer. Hive needs a permanent live, neutral, and then your stat wires to hit the boiler's 'Room Stat/Timer' terminals properly. If those got fished out or bypassed, the boiler might fire up but never control the zone properly.
 
Swapping thermostat wires directly usually doesn't work. You've got to wire the Hive receiver into your current zone control. This could mean hooking it up to the zone valve wires and keeping some old timer settings. You might even need a Hive multizone system.
 
I guess the Hive is triggering the boiler but not opening the zone valves, which is why it fires up but the radiators stay cold. The 2 wires you removed likely controlled the zone valves, so pulling them out may have broken that link. You'll need to wire the Hive to control both the boiler and the zone valves correctly. It might be time to trace the wiring or check the setup with a multizone compatible Hive or a dual channel receiver. Hope this helps.
Quick question, how do you know if the Hive receiver is dual channel or multizone compatible? And when tracing wires, is there a safe way to test which ones go to the zone valves without disconnecting everything? TY
 
I guess the Hive is triggering the boiler but not opening the zone valves, which is why it fires up but the radiators stay cold. The 2 wires you removed likely controlled the zone valves, so pulling them out may have broken that link. You'll need to wire the Hive to control both the boiler and the zone valves correctly. It might be time to trace the wiring or check the setup with a multizone compatible Hive or a dual channel receiver. Hope this helps.
You're probably right. If the valve control wiring is off, that would explain why the radiators are cold. Just double-check the setup, especially if you're using a multi-zone Hive or a dual-channel system.
 
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